Day 3: Waterfalls
When we first planned to visit Yosemite, we had no clue how much the trip would wear us out. After two days and nearly 20 miles of hiking and walking, we were exhausted. So, for our third day we opted for a shorter hike: 5.4 miles on the Mist Trail to see Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall. The hike still looked like a significant endeavor, but 5 miles sounded easy compared to the ~8 miles posed by both of our previous hikes.
For our last day in the park, we opted to sleep in a little bit. Maria and I caught a later bus (which we slept on) and didn’t enter the park until after 9 AM. On the shuttle to the Mist Trail’s trailhead, we met a pair of climbers equipped with ropes, helmets, climbing shoes, and trad gear. They described their plans to climb Half Dome, though I don’t remember the specific route they were ascending. Since the Mist Trail serves as the beginning of the Half Dome hike and an approach trail for many rock climbers, it’s common to find hardcore outdoor enthusiasts among the more “vanilla” visitors (like Maria and I) on the trail. I didn’t know it at the time, but I was destined to return to Yosemite as one of those climbers only a few years later…
Struggling Up the Mist Trail
We arrived at the trailhead at 10 AM. We learned quickly – to our surprise – that the Mist Trail is far from the easy hike we expected. After beginning with a shallow incline, the trail unexpectedly turned into a steep trudge through several large boulders. The path mellowed out after crossing the Merced River, at which point we could hear Vernal Fall’s roar nearby. It’s also at this point that the trail’s surroundings become extra-scenic. Once we crossed the river, the trail guided us through beautiful forests along the Merced. Behind us, Glacier Point rose thousands of feet into the air. Vernal Fall’s booming presence continued to grow louder as we continued up the trail.
Vernal Fall
Once Maria and I came into view of Vernal Fall at 10:45, we discovered why the trail is called “Mist.” As we approached the base of Vernal, we found massive clouds of mist rising from the river. Water cascaded more than 300 feet from the top of the fall and – once it hit the rocks below – kicked up into mist that soaked hikers on the trail. It was a delightful sight, one that cooled us down from the late morning sun.
Stairs carved into the rock began guiding us to the top of the waterfall. We watched our step carefully, since the mist had drenched every step inch of the staircase. As we gained elevation, we spotted beautiful rainbows formed by the sunlight’s reflection and refraction in the mist. The view allowed me to take one of my favorite photos I’ve ever taken in a national park.
We continued to the top of Vernal Fall, where we watched thousands of gallons of water topple over the edge of the cliff. Compared to Yosemite Falls, Vernal Fall flowed much more proudly and fully. It was quite impressive.
After getting our fill of the waterfall, Maria and I proceeded on the trail. We passed Emerald Pool, a slow-moving part of the Merced sitting upstream of Vernal Fall. Technically, hikers are not allowed to swim in the aptly named body of water. Presumably, this is for safety reasons. In the spring, when the Merced flows at its fullest, it’s likely easy for visitors to be swept away by the pool and into the waterfall. In summer, however, the water flow is mild enough that the pool is nearly stagnant. This encourages visitors to swim in Emerald Pool, as the water looks relatively safe. So, when we passed the pool, we spotted dozens of hikers cooling off in the clear water. No park rangers were around to correct the swimmers, so they continued without fear of reprehension.
Nevada Fall
The trail began another steep rise after passing Emerald Pool. After 30 minutes of following the Merced, we found our first clear view of Nevada Fall. At nearly 600 feet tall, the waterfall is nearly double the height of Vernal. Water freefalls over its top for about 200 feet before impacting the rock, creating huge clouds of mist. The white, turbulent water cascades over steep rock for another 400 feet, finally reaching the fall’s base. Our mouths hung open as we stared at the waterfall from the trail. It was difficult to fathom the volume of water tumbling down the rock.
The trail turned into a series of steep switchbacks after our initial view of Nevada Fall. It took another 30 minutes to reach the top of the waterfall. We explored the summit of the waterfall for a few minutes and snapped some photos of the valley below us. Then, we found a quiet spot along the Merced where we ate lunch and enjoyed some peace. Maria and I spent an hour at the top of Nevada Fall before returning down the Mist Trail.
Swimming in Emerald Pool
On our way down, we decided to join the other rule-breaking hikers swimming in Emerald Pool. For the record, the water in Emerald Pool can be dangerous – even in summer. Currents below the surface have swept hikers to their deaths over Vernal Fall, like in 2011, when three were killed on the same day in July. So, I can’t condone swimming in Emerald Pool for the safety of those reading this. Thankfully, however, Maria and I – along with the dozens of people around us – encountered no danger in Emerald Pool in 2018. The stop turned into a refreshing cleanse in clear water and a memorable way to conclude our hike.
After an hour relaxing in and near Emerald Pool, we reequipped our clothing and shoes to finish the last leg of the hike. We descended past Vernal Fall, which sprayed us with mist once more. We reached the valley floor around 4:30 PM. Initially, we had considered doing the Mirror Lake trail, but decided that we were too exhausted. Instead, we boarded the bus back to Cedar Lodge. There, we waited for Will to return. He’d agreed to meet us at the motel and spend the night there, and would drive us back to San Jose and to a quick visit in San Francisco the next morning.
In Conclusion…
To visit Yosemite as my very first national park was an immeasurable blessing. I’d never experienced nature at its best, and Yosemite was certainly the place to do that. Though Maria and I never strayed from the valley – a relatively small part of the park – everything we did, saw, hiked, and experienced there blew us away. Yosemite’s stunning natural beauty and recreational opportunities evoked a desire to visit the remaining national parks (59 at the time). This goal became a driving force in my life, guiding my travel decisions, political views, life outlook, and preferred hobbies from then until the present.
In short: Yosemite National Park changed my life. Maria and I learned a lot during our three days in Yosemite Valley. We discovered the importance of water, hiking equipment, hiking shoes, and sunscreen. We learned how to plan and execute a successful national park trip, and how – for the most popular parks – those trips require planning far in advance. Most importantly, we learned of a shared passion that added a new layer to our love and relationship.
When you visit Yosemite – if you haven’t already – I hope it blows you away like it did me and Maria. Perhaps it will mold your worldview and create an appreciation for our fragile natural world. Maybe it will spark new passions and excitement for outdoor recreation. The park did these things for me and for millions of other people, so I hope it does the same for you.
Even if you have no desire to visit any of the national parks, I highly recommend stopping in Yosemite. The visit is sure to stick out in your memories, whether you just pop into the valley for a few hours or spend a week there. Check out the link below to see my recommendations for how to best enjoy your visit. Feel free to contact me for questions about the park or even for a suggested itinerary.
— Paul
Discover more about Yosemite National Park
Return to my National Park Guide
Return to my National Park Journal