Day 3: Big Bend Ranch State Park
After another night of mediocre sleep under the stars, Shane and I filled up our water for the third day. The original plan was to hike a long and dangerously hot canyon at Big Bend National Park’s far west side. However, after a ranger at Chisos Basin told us that people had died in the heat on that trail, we changed our mind. So, we decided to venture towards Big Bend Ranch State Park. The park wasn’t far down the road from our campsite, making it an easy first stop of the day. In addition, it contained “The River Road,” a name used for the section of FM170 that parallels the Rio Grande. An excuse to stay in the car and out of the heat? You bet.
The rangers told us the previous day that River Road is one of the most scenic roads in the country, which piqued our interest. At about 8:30 AM, we packed up our water and snacks and hopped in Shane’s car. As we began the drive, we initially were unimpressed with the hills, modest cliffs, and occasional glimpses of the Rio Grande. However, massive mountains, huge cliff-faces, and panoramic vistas of the Mexican-American border soon replaced those underwhelming features. The colors and dramatic shadows cast by the early-morning sun made it even more beautiful. The surroundings enamored us, and the drive became a delight.
A Top 10 Scenic Drive in the Country
We drove 25 miles west on FM170 before turning around. During the drive, we made frequent stops. Shane’s Taurus took us to numerous scenic overlooks, two short hiking trails, a picnicking spot, and a grove that contained wild horses. The 4-hour adventure was full of surprises and jaw-dropping scenery bolstered by our use of the Taurus’ stereo system (“The Ecstasy of Gold” and “WAP” were both musical staples of the morning). It was awesome.
One Last Hike
After our morning detour, we returned to the confines of the national park to round out our trip. Since most of the park was still closed, we got creative with how to spend our afternoon. First, we returned to Chisos Basin and did the last hike in the area: the Window Trail. The trail takes hikers to the titular Window, an opening between two cliffs that allows you to peer through the edge of the Chisos Mountains. While the Window is something you can view from the parking lot, we figured it was worth our time to hike down and see it up close. After all, what else was there to do?
Dinosaurs!
After this, we ventured to the only other thing in the park that was open: the Fossil Discovery Exhibit. I expected the spot to be underwhelming. Earlier in the summer, Maria and I had walked the similarly-named Fossil Exhibit Trail in Badlands National Park. Disappointingly, there was not a single real fossil along that trail in Badlands. The Fossil Discovery Exhibit in Big Bend – on the other hand – is actually quite cool. The museum, which is housed in a building designed to blend in with its surroundings and have zero environmental impact, takes visitors through the geological history of Big Bend. Throughout are collections of fossils and bones, both real and replica. They are organized to enhance the story of the park’s existence, providing a neat educational experience. The exhibit was a pleasant surprise.
After this, we drove all the way back to the park’s western entrance at Maverick Junction. There, Shane and I took an obligatory photo with the park’s entrance sign. It wouldn’t be a trip to a National Park without one.
After this, we returned to Rancho Topanga for the last time and concluded the day with dinner, a documentary on Scientology, and more Bulleit. We both slept slightly better that night, probably because we were both exhausted.
In Conclusion…
Do I ever regret my decision to visit Big Bend National Park in August? No, not at all. The odd circumstances – the summer heat and heavy COVID restrictions – made for a unique experience that we had almost entirely to ourselves. There were moments during the trip where we were likely the only souls within a 10-mile radius, which is an awesome feeling that you get in few other places. Even though Shane voiced his disapproval of the heat and lack of climbing on several occasions, he later admitted that he really enjoyed the trip since it was so different from anything he’d done before.
Big Bend National Park is a beautiful place. Hard to access but immensely rewarding when you do, the park is filled with opportunity to connect with nature on a personal and individual level. The views, the vastness, the emptiness, and the untamed-ness of the landscape are surreal and mind-boggling. If you truly want to escape the world, visiting Big Bend in the summer is the way to do it.
During our return drive to Fort Worth, Shane and I had lots of happy conversations as we continued to listen to music. Throughout the 8-hour drive, I reflected fondly on our time in the park, excited for the day when I could return and see more of it. In the moment, I was thankful for the rare friend I had in Shane. Few others would have agreed to do the trip we did. Few others had the opportunity we had to see something so beautiful and untouched.
I love Big Bend National Park, and I hope everyone reading this is able to visit sometime in their life. More importantly, I hope it leaves the same impact on you that it did on me.
— Paul
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