August 27-29, 2020 —
Do any of you have that friend that always wants to embark on the craziest, most random, logic-defying escapades? That friend that is constantly searching for adventure and looking to live life to its fullest? If you don’t, I’d recommend searching for one, because they’re great. For me, that friend is Shane Bonness. After we met freshman year and began living together sophomore year, I firmly resisted his constant nagging to ditch my responsibilities and go rock climbing on countless weekends during our time at Purdue. However, he finally wore me down late in our Junior year (see my story on Zion National Park) and even more during our Senior year, getting me out to places like Red River Gorge, Holy Boulders, Colorado, Utah, and California. This helped instill in me my adventurous and carefree spirit when it comes to traveling, which has carried me far in my journeys to the national parks.
Still, I was a bit surprised that he agreed to venture out to Big Bend National Park with me in the heat of August. I saw the trip as a great opportunity despite the time of year. Shane lived in Texas at the time, meaning it’d be easy to fly into DFW, stay with Shane, and drive out to the park with him. Flights were cheap thanks to the pandemic, and I had a month of free time before starting my job at Rolls-Royce. The fact that it was certain to be hot and the lack of established climbing routes made me uncertain if Shane would want to do it. Nevertheless, he agreed to the idea and we set the trip in motion.
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Day 1: Arrival to the Oasis
I flew into Texas on August 26th, 2020, and got a tour of Fort Worth from Shane. After an evening of climbing at his local gym, we went to bed early and woke up at the crack of dawn the following morning. From Fort Worth, it was an 8-hour drive to the park. After passing some impressive wind farms and colorful rolling hills early in the drive, the landscape quickly turned drab. If you haven’t been to Texas, I recommend driving as little as possible around the state: it’s on par with Kansas or Iowa for boring drives. Until you hit the western part of the state, there are lots of flat fields and lots of oil farms. Things got more interesting a couple hours from the park.
A Surprise in the Desert
The flatness gave way to surprisingly tall mountains. The ranches were replaced with wild and untamed lands. Straight roads became windier and curvier. Dust devils began to pop up on the horizon and around the roads. Despite the much more interesting landscape, everything was still very much a desert, and Shane & I continued to wonder if our long journey would be worth it. Even after entering Big Bend through Persimmon Gap on the north end of the park, neither of us were impressed. While the landscape was vast and untouched, we couldn’t see much to write home about at first glance.
Our opinions changed when the Chisos Mountains appeared in the distance. To understand the layout of Big Bend, it’s easiest to reference the map of the park, but I’ll do my best to describe it with words. In short, the Chisos are located in the center of the massive park and feature many of the park’s popular hikes. I didn’t know much about the mountains beyond their name and the hikes they contained. This made it all the more surprising when we finally reached the mountains and discovered a lush, green oasis that differed completely from the surrounding landscape.
The Lost Mine Trail
Our first hike – the Lost Mine Trail – was surprisingly pleasant. The temperatures were in the 80s. Clouds kept the sun off our backs. Birds and ground critters hopped around the brush and in the trees around us. I suddenly felt much better about the decision to travel such a long distance to reach the park. The 4.8-mile hike was a delight, and the spectacular view at the end was the cherry on top.
100-Degree Camping
After our stop at the Lost Mine Trail, it was time to venture on to our campsite. Due to COVID-related restrictions, most of Big Bend National Park was closed at the time of our visit. Only the hiking trails and visitor center at Chisos Basin were open. Everything else – the Santa Elena Canyon, Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, the Rio Grande Village – was closed. Overnight stays in the park were prohibited, so every campground was closed, too. To work around this, we booked a spot at Rancho Topanga Campgrounds, a remote campground west of the park that was as rugged as its name sounds and – in true Texas fashion – that sold guns back behind its office.
Due to the dip in elevation compared to the Chisos Mountains and the lack of cloud cover, the temperature spiked dramatically during our approach. My phone told me that it was 101 degrees when we arrived at our campsite, a number we believed without doubt the moment we stepped out of the car.
Shane and I spent hours contemplating our mortality and isolation while baking in the hot sun. We used the car and a nearby bathhouse for blissful shade while we cooked and ate dinner. Except for the occasional car that drove down the nearby highway, we did not see or hear another soul. Honestly, I enjoyed the escapist feel of our situation in spite of the heat. Shane, on the other hand, was very verbal about his discomfort.
“I used my only two vacation days to do this… I’ve made so many mistakes in my life, and this was one of the largest. Also, the running water – since it’s stored in a black pot – burns you.”
Shane Bonness
He still had fun. I think.
Day 2: Escape from the Desert
After a night of mediocre sleep, Shane and I awoke to a dry 85-degree morning and a beautiful sunrise. We loaded up our packs with nearly 20 liters of water in preparation for the day. Our goal was to hike the South Rim plus Emory Peak, estimated at ~15 miles round trip with 3,200 feet in elevation gain. We had a hell of a day in front of us.
We drove back into Big Bend as the rising sun cast wondrous shadows among the approaching Chisos Mountains. The beautiful morning increased my eagerness about the day’s hike, as we looked to have perfect weather ahead of us.
A Black Bear?
As we turned onto Chisos Basin Road – the final approach into the mountains – we saw a large shape moving off to the left. We stopped the car and looked out the driver’s window to find… a black bear?! No… surely this was a glitch in the simulation. Why the heck would there be a black bear in the middle of the desert?
As it turns out, the Chisos Mountains house a “mini-ecosystem” within its more temperate climate. The higher elevation and geography compared to the surrounding desert supports many flora and fauna that most of western Texas cannot. Black bears, mountain lions, bobcats, deer, and colorful birds can all be found in the area. So, while seeing a wild black bear – a first for me – near the Mexican-American border was a huge surprise, it made perfect sense after discussing further with some park rangers.
To the South Rim
Shane and I loaded up our packs and began our hike around 9:30 AM. We decided to hike the South Rim loop trail counterclockwise. This meant that our first notable stop was Laguna Meadow, situated about ~1800 feet higher than the Chisos Basin Visitor Center, where we parked. We stopped for the occasional photo as we climbed out of the basin and trudged through varied ecosystems. We passed by fields of wildflowers and through groves of trees while the trail rose and fell in front of us. As the sun rose higher, we were greeted by increasing cloud cover that shielded us from its heat. In the distance, we could see the barren desert through openings in the mountains.
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At 12:30 PM, we finally reached the South Rim – a view unlike any I had seen before. As we stood atop the rim’s cliff faces, we observed the ground that dropped over a mile in front of us. Since Big Bend is so far from – well – anything, there was little-to-no air pollution to obscure our view. We could see at least 50 miles in any direction, and it was magnificent. The Santa Elena Canyon, the “Mule Ears” rock formation, the Rio Grande, and so many more things were visible from our perch.
The South Rim embodies the phrase “pictures don’t do it justice.” Shane and I spent an hour traversing the cliff line and absorbing the views. While we took many photos, it was hard to capture the majesty in front of us. Except for one other pair of hikers, we were completely alone in our spot. We enjoyed complete silence, which was only perturbed by a slight breeze coming from the south.
To Emory Peak
At 1:30 we decided to move on, beginning our journey to Emory Peak. We trudged through forests, a dried creek bed, and rocky ravines as we made our way back north. Shane observed how our surroundings felt like a completely different world than the one we’d just left, and I agreed. For ~an hour, we no longer could see the distant mountains and desert. If someone had told me we were hiking somewhere in Colorado, I could have easily believed them. Eventually, we punched out into Boot Canyon, catching glimpses again of the surrounding mountains.
Finally, we reached the trail split that took us to Emory Peak. The 3.5-mile out-and-back detour was worth every ounce of sweat. The steep trail grew increasingly rocky as we ascended: by the time we reached the top, the hike had turned into a scramble over massive boulders. We were greeted by another helping of 50-mile views in every direction. A marker in one of the rocks reminded us that we had reached the highest point in the park. Dozens of ladybugs flew around us and crawled on our bags and clothes, an odd but fascinating feature of the peak.
Back to the Desert
At around 4 PM, we began our return to the Chisos Basin parking lot. During the final miles, we weaved our way through rocky spires known as the Pinnacles. We observed deer, birds, cacti, unique red-barked trees, and interesting views of Casa Grande. We reached the parking lot shortly after 6 PM. According to my phone, we had walked 36,377 steps, 19.4 miles, and ascended 197 floors. I had consumed over 8 liters of water, and Shane had consumed over 9. The day was the most intensive and rewarding day of hiking I had ever completed.
We returned to our campsite in the desert as the sun began to set. We concluded our day with dinner, a Zoom call with our Purdue friends, and lots of Bulleit bourbon. Whilst drunk, we ventured out into the desert adjacent our campsite and observed the night sky. The lack of light pollution in that part of Texas makes for one of the most crystal-clear night skies in the country. I aspire to one day purchase a better camera that will allow me to capture that sky.
Day 3: Big Bend Ranch State Park
After another night of mediocre sleep under the stars, Shane and I filled up our water for the third day. The original plan was to hike a long and dangerously hot canyon at Big Bend National Park’s far west side. However, after a ranger at Chisos Basin told us that people had died in the heat on that trail, we changed our mind. So, we decided to venture towards Big Bend Ranch State Park. The park wasn’t far down the road from our campsite, making it an easy first stop of the day. In addition, it contained “The River Road,” a name used for the section of FM170 that parallels the Rio Grande. An excuse to stay in the car and out of the heat? You bet.
The rangers told us the previous day that River Road is one of the most scenic roads in the country, which piqued our interest. At about 8:30 AM, we packed up our water and snacks and hopped in Shane’s car. As we began the drive, we initially were unimpressed with the hills, modest cliffs, and occasional glimpses of the Rio Grande. However, massive mountains, huge cliff-faces, and panoramic vistas of the Mexican-American border soon replaced those underwhelming features. The colors and dramatic shadows cast by the early-morning sun made it even more beautiful. The surroundings enamored us, and the drive became a delight.
A Top 10 Scenic Drive in the Country
We drove 25 miles west on FM170 before turning around. During the drive, we made frequent stops. Shane’s Taurus took us to numerous scenic overlooks, two short hiking trails, a picnicking spot, and a grove that contained wild horses. The 4-hour adventure was full of surprises and jaw-dropping scenery bolstered by our use of the Taurus’ stereo system (“The Ecstasy of Gold” and “WAP” were both musical staples of the morning). It was awesome.
One Last Hike
After our morning detour, we returned to the confines of the national park to round out our trip. Since most of the park was still closed, we got creative with how to spend our afternoon. First, we returned to Chisos Basin and did the last hike in the area: the Window Trail. The trail takes hikers to the titular Window, an opening between two cliffs that allows you to peer through the edge of the Chisos Mountains. While the Window is something you can view from the parking lot, we figured it was worth our time to hike down and see it up close. After all, what else was there to do?
Dinosaurs!
After this, we ventured to the only other thing in the park that was open: the Fossil Discovery Exhibit. I expected the spot to be underwhelming. Earlier in the summer, Maria and I had walked the similarly-named Fossil Exhibit Trail in Badlands National Park. Disappointingly, there was not a single real fossil along that trail in Badlands. The Fossil Discovery Exhibit in Big Bend – on the other hand – is actually quite cool. The museum, which is housed in a building designed to blend in with its surroundings and have zero environmental impact, takes visitors through the geological history of Big Bend. Throughout are collections of fossils and bones, both real and replica. They are organized to enhance the story of the park’s existence, providing a neat educational experience. The exhibit was a pleasant surprise.
After this, we drove all the way back to the park’s western entrance at Maverick Junction. There, Shane and I took an obligatory photo with the park’s entrance sign. It wouldn’t be a trip to a National Park without one.
After this, we returned to Rancho Topanga for the last time and concluded the day with dinner, a documentary on Scientology, and more Bulleit. We both slept slightly better that night, probably because we were both exhausted.
In Conclusion…
Do I ever regret my decision to visit Big Bend National Park in August? No, not at all. The odd circumstances – the summer heat and heavy COVID restrictions – made for a unique experience that we had almost entirely to ourselves. There were moments during the trip where we were likely the only souls within a 10-mile radius, which is an awesome feeling that you get in few other places. Even though Shane voiced his disapproval of the heat and lack of climbing on several occasions, he later admitted that he really enjoyed the trip since it was so different from anything he’d done before.
Big Bend National Park is a beautiful place. Hard to access but immensely rewarding when you do, the park is filled with opportunity to connect with nature on a personal and individual level. The views, the vastness, the emptiness, and the untamed-ness of the landscape are surreal and mind-boggling. If you truly want to escape the world, visiting Big Bend in the summer is the way to do it.
During our return drive to Fort Worth, Shane and I had lots of happy conversations as we continued to listen to music. Throughout the 8-hour drive, I reflected fondly on our time in the park, excited for the day when I could return and see more of it. In the moment, I was thankful for the rare friend I had in Shane. Few others would have agreed to do the trip we did. Few others had the opportunity we had to see something so beautiful and untouched.
I love Big Bend National Park, and I hope everyone reading this is able to visit sometime in their life. More importantly, I hope it leaves the same impact on you that it did on me.
— Paul
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